Tucked away in Bangkok’s historic Chinatown, Song Wat Road is a journey through time. Once the city’s Spice Road, it was a bustling hub where Indian, Chinese, and Thai merchants lived and traded. Overlooking the Chao Phraya River, this storied district blends old-world charm with a fresh wave of artistic and culinary innovation. Centuries-old shrines and warehouse-turned-galleries sit alongside Michelin-starred restaurants and hidden coffee houses, making Song Wat a fascinating neighbourhood to explore on foot.
Start your walk at Lao Pun Tao Kong Shrine, located at the corner of Song Wat Road and Trok Chaiyaphum Alley. Founded by Teochew Chinese settlers, this grand shrine remains a community pillar, drawing worshippers seeking prosperity and protection. Pay your respects to Tua Lao Ere at the shrine’s centre before following the traditional circular path to enhance your fortune. Complete your visit with a blessing from Lao Pun Tao Kong, the warrior deity guarding the entrance, ensuring a safe passage for all who enter.
A short stroll away, the aroma of freshly brewed coffee beckons from Song Wat Coffee & Roasters (SCR). This intimate café blends Bangkok’s old-world charm with contemporary coffee culture, offering a curated selection of beans. Pair your cup with a pandan canelé or chestnut croissant while soaking in the café’s minimalist yet vintage aesthetic. Nestled in a quiet alleyway, SCR is a haven for caffeine connoisseurs and design enthusiasts alike.
Among Song Wat’s hidden gems is Masjid Luang Kocha Itsahak, the city’s oldest mosque, built in 1910 by a prominent Indian-Muslim merchant. Its understated Indo-Persian architecture, featuring a simple white dome and arched windows, provides a striking contrast to the bustling Chinatown streets. Step inside the serene wooden prayer hall to experience a moment of tranquillity and reflect on the diverse cultural threads that have shaped Bangkok’s history.
For a dose of creativity, head to Play Art House. Once a hub for handcrafted shoes, this former warehouse has been transformed into the district’s first dedicated art gallery. Open from 10am-7pm Monday to Thursday and until 8pm Friday to Sunday, it hosts a rotating lineup of exhibitions showcasing both Thai and international artists. With free admission, it’s an accessible and inspiring stop for art lovers eager to experience contemporary creativity within a historic setting.
Just opposite Play Art House, Road of Cinnamon is a boutique featuring an eclectic mix of artisan crafts. Beginning as a small collective in Song Wat, this charming store brims with handcrafted wonders, from porcelain and homeware to intricately designed puppets. Beyond Thai-made treasures, visitors can also discover rare international finds. Whether searching for a distinctive keepsake or an authentic cultural artefact, Road of Cinnamon is a must-visit for lovers of craftsmanship.
No walk through Song Wat would be complete without a taste of its culinary heritage. Gu Long Bao is a family-run eatery reimagining a 100-year-old Teochew bao recipe. Here, classic steamed buns take on a golden hue with sweet potato-infused dough. Fillings range from traditional minced pork and sweet bean to inventive plant-based pork and black sesame. Pair your bao with a refreshing herbal drink and savour the delicate balance of tradition and innovation.
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For a more substantial meal, E-Ga Luv Seafood offers a contemporary take on classic Thai seafood dishes. Fresh ingredients take centre stage in dishes like crispy garlic-fried fish and fiery hot-and-spicy seafood soup. Arrive before 11am to enjoy exclusive breakfast specials, or drop by later for Thai desserts and cakes. Whether seeking a hearty breakfast or an indulgent dinner, E-Ga Luv Seafood delivers an unforgettable riverside feast.
Tea aficionados should not miss Casa Formosa Taiwan Tea House, a tranquil retreat housed in a century-old shophouse. Curated by tea expert Larry Ko, this serene space serves some of Taiwan’s finest brews, from Sun Moon to Oriental Beauty. Beyond tea, Casa Formosa offers exquisite tea-infused ice creams and pastries, making it an ideal spot to unwind with a warm drink and good conversation.
Book lovers will find solace at The Reader, a quaint yellow bookshop on Phat Sai Street. Traditionally known for its shoe shops, this street now houses one of Bangkok’s most charming literary havens. Shelves brim with carefully selected titles in both Thai and English, covering everything from classic literature to contemporary reads. A cosy reading corner invites visitors to linger over a book with a cup of tea or coffee, making it the perfect hideaway for a quiet afternoon.
Rounding out Song Wat’s transformation is Potong, a one-Michelin-starred dining destination. Once a Chinese pharmacy, this historic shophouse has been reimagined by Chef Pichaya “Pam” Utharntham into an avant-garde Thai-Chinese restaurant. The menu, rooted in the Five Elements philosophy, presents a meticulously crafted multi-course experience that pays homage to both heritage and innovation.
From its spice trade legacy to its modern-day revival as a hub of art, culture, and gastronomy, Song Wat embraces change while honouring its past. Whether exploring spiritual landmarks, indulging in culinary delights, or uncovering hidden artistic treasures, a walk through Song Wat is a walk through Bangkok’s living history.
If You Go
The Song Wat neighbourhood is easily accessible, just a short walk from Ratchawong Pier or a 15-minute stroll through the vibrant streets of Chinatown from Wat Mangkon MRT Station.
